Mountaineering around Ladakh
The most famous peaks of Zanskar are Nun (7135m) and Kun (7077m). For Nun, one would follow an interesting trekking trail from Leh – Lamayuru – Shilla – Yogmala – Kanjila – Mapolan – Ringdum -Panikhar and then to BC till you begin your climb. For Kun, one follows a similar route till Ringdum and then moves to Golmatongas and a two day trek gets one to the base camp.
Adjacent to them in the Shafat glacier are White Needle (6500m), Pinnacle (6930m), and Z1 (6400m). The Z peak series are around the nearby Durung Drung glacier off Pensi La. In the Ladakh region, it has Stok Kangri (6153m), Parcha Kangri (6065m) and Kang Yatse (6400m).
For Stok Kangri, you follow the very popular Markha valley trail till you begin your ascent. Leh – Lamayuru – Wanla – Hinju – Lanak – Chilling – Skiu – Markha– Thachunngtse – Nimaling – Chogdo – Shang – Shang Phu – Shang la –Yarlas – Stok Kangri glacier.
For climbing in the Eastern Karakoram area for which one needs to drive over the Khardungla Pass, getting close to the vicinity of the Siachen glacier, certain peaks are allowed on a joint Indo-Foreign expedition basis with a maximum of 7 members from each side. Peaks like Apsaras II (7200m), Chong Kumdan II (7004m), Siakangri II (7093m), Saltoro Kangri II (7005m), are some of the virgin peaks.
Climbing expeditions from overseas are obliged to pay a peak royalty depending on the height of the mountain.
CLIMB STOK KANGRI
I t i n e r a r y
Day 01: Early morning flight to Leh 11800 ft the capital of Ladakh. On arrival at Kushok Bakula Airport transfer to Hotel and full day at rest for high altitude acclimatization. Evening brisk walk to market. Overnight at the Hotel.
Day 02: After an early breakfast, proceed for a fullday Indus Valley tour includes visit to Shey Palace, Thiksey, Hemis and Stok Monasteries which are the among the historically most important and magnificent Buddhist Monasteries in Ladakh. Box lunch for the day. Evening free at the market in Leh. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 03: After an early morning drive from Leh to Martselang 11,200 ft / 3,414m), we start our trek to Shang village; on the we can enjoy the breath taking view of the Sakti and Cherry villages,enter to the gorge valley of Shang, we continue our trek along with the small beautiful village of Shang; Overnight at the camp
Day 04: After an early morning pack up and start our trek today we start with a gradual climb to the village is rewarded with a good view of the stone-walled fields and irrigation channels. Going down to the trail, start climbing slowly as the valley narrows. The trail becomes steeper as you make your way to the camps of Shang Phu (13,900 ft / 4,237m.) A clump of juniper trees with a small shrine marks the pasture. This is a typical Ladakhi pastoral setting with small stone-huts called phu-lu that serve as summer dwellings.
Day 05:Today we start our trek along with the valley on the right from the junction where you had pitched camp the day before. Climb up past scrubs and wild rose bushes. Leave the stream to climb up the side of the valley, to the top of Shang La (16,300 ft / 4,968m.) The ascent takes around three and a half hours. From the pass, the views open up, with the Stok and Matho La Kangri peaks in front and the summit of Parcha Kangri behind. This trails is tremendous.
Day 06: While enjoying a breathtaking view of the Indus valley we continue our trek and the trail stays high on the hill side. A three hour walk on an incline, crossing side streams, leads to the base of the Matho La (14,100 ft / 4,297 m.). As this has been a short day, you can go on a hike on the east slope of the Matho Kangri Massif. A steady climb can take you as high as 19,000 ft / 5,800 m as you do not encounter any ice or snow. Across the valley are the Ladakh range and the Khardung La and beyond that the lofty mountains of the eastern Karakoram Range.
Day 07: Start our trek with climb to the Pass begins just after camp. On the Pass (16,100 ft / 4,907m), the Stok Kangri looms up. Descend from the Pass to the pastures of Mankarmo next to a stream. Leave the main valley and climb up westward to the Stok Kangri (16,077 ft / 4,900m).
Day 08: Day take a much-needed rest before you try the summit of Stok Kangri. In mountaineering parlance, a trekking peak is the name given to a summit that does not require any technical knowledge for climbing or any equipment for the ascent. But 20,506 ft / 6,250 m does require fitness and stamina and mental conditioning.
Day 09: We start before the sun is up. Climb up, switch backing to the top of the ridge in front. A tough ascent on the mountainside for an hour from the ridge top takes you to the moraine coming down from the glacier. A grueling ninety-minute climb takes you to the summit. If you go in August or later, you will encounter no snow except on the summit. From the top you get a magical 360-degree view of the whole of Ladakh – the twin peaks of Nun (23,400 ft / 7,132m)) to the east, the Karakoram range to the north.
Day 10: of eighth turn left from the Mungkirmo pastures to follow the Mankyarmo river to its confluence with the Stok river. The trail follows the Stok river down to the Stok village. After the creditable feat of scaling a peak, you may want to look at some local history at the Stok palace;
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